Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Day 8

8 – Decembre – 2008
Day 8
Ok, so I’m switching up the format on you. For the first few days, I had been heading back to the apartment during siesta, but that is no longer the case, so from here on out, I’ll be writing to you on the time period from afternoon to afternoon, instead of each individual day. That was becoming too difficult, and as I start to partake in the social life here after work, it’s challenging to organize a day’s thoughts and events. Today, as you read, begins yesterday, with dinner service and finishes with today’s lunch service, and anything that comes between.
Service started slowly, in a similar fashion as earlier in the week, and at about 8:15 we were preparing to shut it down for the night. I would have been completely content with that, as I was completely exhausted, and a slow night does nothing to stimulate, inspire or produce adrenaline for energy. I was ready to sleep, and then we sat a 7 top, followed by a 3 top. As we’re preparing to close, at just about 9 o’clock, Eris enters the kitchen, groans a very perturbed Italian correspondence to Kevin and returns to the dining room. I give Kevin the curious eye-ball and he lets me in on the news, the town drunkard has stumbled in and he routinely sits, regardless of the time or the state of affairs in the restaurant, for well over 2 hours. He’s with a date, they order 3 courses, and enjoy themselves for 2 and-a-half hours, at the expense of our patience and required hospitality. So be it, we had settled in, and were at least emotionally prepared for his encumbering nature. We were cleaned and changed well before he chose to end his stay, so by the time I arrived home, I was already half asleep.
I woke up in a state of anger that I have no explanation for. I was FURIOUS, a series of dreams last night produced a feeling of curious rage that coursed through me for the first hour or so of the morning. I’m not entirely sure how to explain the root of it. Certainly I’m under stress, I have been experiencing the full scope of emotion yet have felt, more or less, in tune with myself the entire time. Other than the need for companionship, which is becoming less and less of a factor, as Kevin is a good guy, and we’re building a reasonable friendship based on the circumstances here, I am not angry. It spoiled my rest, I did not rise from my bed in a relaxed manner, I shot up, looked at my alarm clock and was fuming at having awoken seconds before it was to sound its alarm. I instantly questioned my state of mind, briefly analyzed the subconscious stream of thoughts from the night, and decided that this, although concerning, state of being was an anomaly to be attributed to the transition. I don’t have a reference point for this sort of lifestyle adjustment, therefore, I will only continue to worry if it persists.
My distraction is work, and today there is plenty to be done. With a private party of 60, scheduled for 4 courses, as well as a la carte service simultaneously, this was the most intensive morning thus far. I was hurried through every plate and process I had been assigned to, and it was a relief. Through this rush, while being exhausted from the restless sleep, of course, I felt an emotional connection to the food being served for the first time here. It wasn’t like having been a part of the dinner crew on the first night at Castle Hill, where I was on the line, and I was side by side with Gomez, taking mental notes of each of his movements. Every plate there I grasped and appreciated, here took some time. I don’t know if it’s because of Chef Lorenzo, Kevin, the food itself or whether I am truly passionate about the work I’m doing, but this morning alleviated much of the concern I had been feeling about this apprenticeship.
Tomorrow is a day off as the restaurant is closed for renovations. They’re adding more equipment for prep and the Art Institute is sending students here for classes starting in January. Lorenzo encouraged me to take it off, even though I would be happy to come in and see what work goes into restaurant renovation and construction (or reconstruction for that matter). I’ll likely just sleep in a little later and find myself in the dining room to watch and lend a hand if it’s needed. My first day off… no idea what to do, we shall see though!

Dinner was spectacular. We sit, the only guests in a three tiered dining room, which any modern city would try to emulate, the minimal décor melding with the ancient structure formed a congruence that NYC designers would drool over. Two floors, dedicated to the a la carte kitchen, and the third, a special event floor, that, in my opinion could comfortably accommodate 100 people. The menu is a blend of traditional and modern foods that compliment the style of the dining room, and clearly the chef. He introduced himself to us, and explained the menu, in detail (in Italian, but I caught the majority of it), but you should try to think of the last time an American chef took himself onto the floor to verbally delineate each of his creations. Better yet, try to find an American chef who stays in the restaurant for a party of 5, instead of calling it an early night and heading to the bar for a drink. It is a customary sequence to order Antipasto, Pasta, Carne and finally Dolce. I ordered a Truffle Flan with a parmesan crisp and a spinach puree, then Ravioli stuffed with potato and pancetta in “pomodoro salsa fresco”(pan sauce made from quartered cherry tomatoes). Following that I may have had the best pork I’ve ever eaten. A beautifully seared saddle (yes, with the rind still on, crispy and fatty and oh-so-delicious), which was accompanied by a braised cabbage and a few hard fought tears of joy was my meat course. One last course, and after 5 bottles of wine between the 5 of us, throughout the evening, I was in trouble. Once again the chef appears, and we sing him our praises, while he promptly discusses his dessert finishers. I did, ashamedly, try to pass, but in his best English and a genuine smile, he explains perhaps something light like a Limoncello Gelato would fill the final space in my already bloated gut. I couldn’t say no, a creamy, citrusy, tart and sweet champagne flute filled with house made ice cream was, in fact a delightful complimentary end to my first full Italian meal. I hope I’ve been able to explain it so that you can grasp my enjoyment, but you truly need to sit here and enjoy yourselves first hand, I think I may be in need of repeating that over and over here for the next few months.

Go Slow. Stay Local.
Va Piano. Rimane Locale.

2 comments:

Witha Flourish said...

Hi, David,

Your Mom just sent us a link to your blog. And it's fun to see what you're up to. Here's Tim's: http://www.poweredbysilas.com/rivers//

you're both ex-pats now.

I've been working on making a super great roast chicken and have not succeeded yet--I've tried slower cooking at 350 and faster at 425--maybe my birds were too big to be really succulent (almost 8lb). I'm thinking of picking up some smaller ones and trying more of a braising or slow liquid cook... any recipes or advice?

My only real culinary success is, at long last, getting a great pie crust--amazing things happen when you sometimes follow the directions!

I can hear that Ike has moved a chair over to the kitchen counter and is stealing the chicken I've prepped for enchiladas (yes, we're all very gourmet here!) Anyway, hope you're well.
Emily

the Commis said...

Hi Emma! Thanks for reading,I will surely check out Tim's blog, thank you for the address.

As for your chicken, and for really most animals that we enjoy eating, the younger they are, the more tender and flavorful they will be. Me, I prefer a bird around 3lbs, or else you're likely to end up with the breast meat being over cooked by the time the legs are ready.

One way to remedy that concern is brining, which uses a salt/sugar/water and other seasonings as you prefer them, to impart moisture and flavor to the meat. Traditional marinades work as well, but i would stay away from the use of citrus, alcohol or vinegars, as they will cook the meat themselves, and create a tough, texture just the same.

One method that i prefer the most, but requires purchasing additional equipment, is Rotisserie. Simple seasonings, salt, pepper herbs, both outside and in inside the cavity, and a little butchers string to keep the wings and legs close to the body of the chicken (although, i would recommend this "trussing" for any method you choose). The Rotisserie helps to maintain the natural moisture and flavor of the meat while it rotates, instead of having so much of it purged into a pan.

I just had a thought, something simple to try; if you put a little water in the pan you're roasing with, maybe enough to have an inch or two in the bottom, this will incorporate steam in your oven, which could also aid in cutting down your cooking time as well as keeping the meat juicy and tender. The downside being that it will be more difficult to get that great, golden brown, crispy skin we all love.

I encourage you to keep playing with your cooking temperatures, but using lower heat the bigger the bird.

Well, here I've gone and given you too many options! Hopefully it hasn't added confusion, but depending on my mood/desired use of the meat, these are all methods that I routinely use to roast with!

Buona Fortuna! Let me know if you try any of them!